Babylon opening, BMI to fly London-Baghdad?

The ancient site of Babylon will be open to tourists from June 1:

"The city, located 85 kilometers south of Baghdad, was transformed into a military camp by American and Polish troops and a heliport was built on its ruins. The reopening will take place despite archaeologists expressing their concerns about further damages to what remains of one of the world's first great cities which is pending registration on UNESCO's list of protected World Heritage sites. Iraq's State Board of Antiquities and Heritage now says Babil's provincial government has illegal control over the ancient city, using it for tourism interests regardless of its critical condition. " - from PressTV, Iran.

Meanwhile British airline BMI is considering reintroducing flights between London and Baghdad, no doubt to cater for the large Iraqi expat community in the UK.

"Last week, BMI announced it was keen to re-establish flights between Heathrow and Baghdad as soon as the British government allows. "A small number of scheduled services are being launched within the region," says BMI boss Nigel Turner, "and it makes geographical and economic sense to add Iraq to our network."" - from The Guardian.

new tourism developments in Iraq

Saddam Hussein's bedroom isn't too popular for honeymoons. -from The Economic Times

Saddam's former palace was recently renovated into a luxury hotel and tourist attraction after being vacated by US troops in 2005. -from ArabianBusiness.com.

A $107 million tourism development in Basra has been approved. It will cover an area of 158 donums, or more than 39 hectares, next to the Shatt al-Arab. -from Basra Blog

Western tourists talk about their travels in Iraq. They travelled in areas including Kurdistan, Karbala, Najaf and Basra. -from NPR, link to radio story.

Baghdad's first motorsports meet in a long time was held recently. -from AFP.

And of course, another story asking can Erbil be the next Dubai? Dubai is now teetering on the brink of financial collapse after its property bubble burst. Lets hope any major developments in Iraqi Kurdistan are more economically viable.

Federalism an option

Obama's election victory is also a cause for celebration for many Iraqi Kurds, who appreciate Joe Biden's support for federalism in Iraq. A federal system is seen by many Kurds as the answer to managing deep rifts in the multi-ethnic and multi-religious country.

On the topic of federalism, the Kurdish DTP Party in Turkey recently published a booklet promoting the idea for Turkey:
"The 64-page brochure, titled "Democratic Autonomy Project" and printed in Turkish, English and Kurdish, proposes Turkey be divided into 20 to 25 regions with each region given the power to designate its own symbols and colors." (Hurriyet - English). This is seen as a way to protect Kurdish interests in south-eastern Turkey.
Joost Lagendijk, the co-chairman of the Turkey-EU Joint Parliamentary Commission, said the idea may find supporters in the EU.

The Iraqi Culture House has recently opened in Erbil, with the goal of strengthening ties between different ethnic and cultural groups in Iraq.

New library in Erbil

The Zaytun Division of the South Korean army has now completed the US$4 million library set on an acre of land in the Sami Abdurrahman Park in Erbil. The library is expected to hold over 100,000 titles, greatly benefiting the academic community and all Iraqi Kurds with greater educational and research opportunities.
(Kurdish Globe)

Oktoberfest in Erbil

In Irbil, a city 350 kilometers (217 miles) north of Baghdad, German beer house owner Gunter Voelker wants to dispel the notion that Iraq isn't a holiday destination. In the north, at least, beer is bringing people together.

"It is good to have an area here in Iraq where we can make this festival in peace with friends," said Volker, whose restaurant, the Deutscher Hof Erbil, ended its three-night celebration of the famed German beer festival early Sunday.

-Kurdish Globe

In other news, Turkey has been bombing PKK targets in the Qandil mountains in Kurdistan - be sensible if travelling in the mountain areas.

Kirkuk & Mosul not exactly safe, Erbil powers up

Turkmen political party's Kirkuk office shot up (Hurriyet)'

Suicide bomb in Kirkuk (AP, Kurdish Globe)

Bombings kill 43 in Baghdad & Kirkuk (AP, Kurdish Globe)

Mosul is still freaking dangerous too, although it is claimed that terrorist attacks have been limited. (Reuters, Soma Digest)

But in much better news for Iraqi Kurdistan, Erbil is expected to have 24/7 electricity by the end of August, thanks to a new power plant financed by the Trade Bank of Iraq. (Kurdish Globe)

Historical Amedy (aka Amadiyya, Amadiyah, Amedi) city gets a write-up, in the face of social change. (Soma Digest)

World music day rocked Suly (Soma Digest), while apparently Erbil fashion is all about bling (Telegraph).

Meanwhile, a Kurdish expat in the US argues an absurdly protectionist line against foreign investment in Iraqi Kurdistan. (Kurdish Globe - opinion)

news & articles

Another sign of hope for Iraq, a new airport at Najaf: Work resumes at Iraq refinery in once-violent area (AP)

Kurdistan Region enters trade show season (KRG)

There are more and more pieces on tourism in Iraqi Kurdistan, including news that a Californian travel company, Distant Horizons, has run a tour to Kurdistan with more planned:

July: Northern Iraq's Kurdistan Region seeks tourists (Voice of America)

July: Mountains and waterfalls: an unconventional holiday in “The Other Iraq” (The Economist)

June: Tourists embrace an unexpected destination: Iraqi Kurdistan (Voice of America)

May: Visit to Kurdish area is like leaving Iraq (Huntsville Times)

April: Treading lightly in Iraq (Telegraph)

news

In another sign that Iraqi Kurdistan is open for business and tourism, clothing brand Mango will soon open a store in Erbil. Also, the Slemani (Sulaymaniyah) Museum is working to preserve Kurdistan's heritage.

Soma Digest interviews the Lonely Planet writer who recently visited Iraqi Kurdistan.

France has recently opened a consulate in Erbil as well.

There is still violence between the Turkish military and the PKK, with the most recent incidents being in Turkey's Sirnak province. Meanwhile, three German climbers were last week kidnapped by the PKK while climbing Mt Ararat.

An optimistic writer for the Kurdish Globe compares Sulaymaniyah with Los Angeles, while another article lauds the benefits to Kurdistan of the trade in second-hand clothing. And the region's pro-growth investment law is promoting more foreign investment in Kurdistan.

Lastly, author Andrew Collins has written a book about Kurdistan's role in the birth of civilization.

Lonely Planet article

A new story on Iraqi Kurdistan has gone up on the Lonely Planet website. Don't forget to check out the great photo gallery as well- there are some spectacular photos of Amadiyah and mountain locations along the famed Hamilton Road.

Safety update

There were reports on Thursday that Turkey was again massing troops near the Iraqi border, followed by a report today that they killed 15 PKK members in northern Iraq yesterday. Be sensible. And it would be wise to avoid any political demonstrations in Turkey's southeast. Apart from that, it seems that all is well in the main cities of Iraqi Kurdistan.

Meanwhile, in the rest of Iraq, there is some kind of civil war going on, with the Mehdi Army's ceasefire broken. There have been clashes between militias and Iraqi government forces in Basra, Baghdad (especially Sadr City), Kut, Karbala, Hilla and Diwaniyah.

Detailed reporting on violence is at Iraq War News Today.

In other news, Soma Digest has an interesting report on the challenges of getting the free market functioning in Iraqi Kurdistan, and insight into the Turkish businesses working there.

Turkey still shelling

Reports are out that despite pulling its troops out of Iraq, they are still shelling some remote mountain locations, the one mentioned being Dashti Barzji, in the mountains of Erbil province.

Border open, Turks going home?

I have it on good authority that the border between Silopi and Zakho is still open, despite the Turkish military action in the region.

Peshmerga are reporting that Turkish troops are beginning to pull out of northern Iraq, over the border and back into Turkey. This is despite the Turks saying on Wednesday that there was 'no timeframe' for withdrawal.

Meanwhile Iraqi Kurds, who a year ago were very pro-US, now seem to be disillusioned with the US's neutral stance on Turkey's incursion. I know that when I was there in February last year I saw many US flags for sale and on display, as well as framed pictures of George W. Bush and Tony Blair.

And a some Turkish thoughts on the 'Kurdish question'.

Today's news on Turkey's invasion

Today's war news from Iraq, including info on the Turkish army's actions against the PKK in the Qandil mountains.

Kurds dig in against invasion, says this Washington Post/Reuters article, including that a Turkish helicopter was shot down.

[The Qandil mountains are a] rugged and largely inaccessible swath of mountains along the border, an area inside Iraqi territory but uncontrolled by any nation...

"If Turkey comes farther than they are now, then 100 per cent we will stop them," said Major-General Hashim Sitae, a peshmerga commander in the northern city of Dahuk.

Is Kirkuk in the Turkish line of fire? asks Kurdish Aspect. I doubt it.

Turkey invades, border virtually closed

On Thursday February 21, Turkey's military sent ground forces across the border into Iraqi Kurdistan, with the aim of hunting and killing PKK militants. Please carefully consider any travel into the region and don't go anywhere stupid.

News today reports bombing 'around' the town of Amadiyah, which is a town in the mountains east of Dohuk, and just south of the Turkish border. There are also reports of fighting in the areas of Hakurk and Sidekan on the Iraqi side of the border across from the Turkish town of Cukurca.

It's reported that Turkish troops are patrolling towns near the border (eg. Cizre and Silopi), and that the Habur border gate (the one between Silopi and Zakho) is virtually closed to civilian traffic, since the Turkish military is being given priority. This is a very tense and sensitive situation and you should seriously reconsider even going into that region of Turkey right now.

Kurdistan Regional Government president Massoud Barzani is reported to have visited the area where the military operation was launched and "no order of clashes with the Turkish forces has been given to the peshmerges [KRG military]."

The Turkish army's ground incursion against separatist Kurdish rebels in northern Iraq is limited in scope, Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan said Friday.

"The target, purpose, size and parameters of this operation are limited," Erdogan said in televised remarks, underlining that the incursion targeted only rebels of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers' Party.

"Our armed forces will come back in the shortest time possible as soon as they achieve their objectives," he added.

"Several hundred, possibly a battalion of Turkish special forces, went in to pursue (rebels) in what they think is a PKK area," the official told Reuters.

The KRG has also condemned the invasion as a violation of Iraqi sovereignty and called for "immediate four-party talks between Washington, Ankara, Baghdad and Erbil" to discuss the issue of the PKK.

I understand that the fighting is restricted to the mountains (which are difficult to get into with the snow anyway) and that the major cities of Dohuk, Erbil and Sulaymaniyah are not affected. But it's still a difficult situation and you should exercise all caution if considering visiting the region in the near future.

recent articles

A statement from the Kurdistan Regional Government with their take on role of federalism in Iraq (KRG, 7 October 2007)

This is a good overview of the current situation in Iraqi Kurdistan, including a good analysis of Kirkuk:

Security may trump ethnicity in Kirkuk (LA Times, 29 September 2007)

The numbers for September report the fewest deaths in Iraq in over a year. 54% of all deaths were in Baghdad, though, with Diyala and Nineveh (both bordering Iraqi Kurdistan) the next most violent. This does indicate the south of Iraq is relatively safer. Watch this space.
Iraqi deaths fall by 50% (Kurdish Globe, 2 October 2007)

Erbil's Nishtiman mall is the biggest construction project in Kurdistan:
The future of Erbil bazaar is in Nishtiman market (Kurdish Globe, 19 September 2007)

Yet another feature article about the prospects for Iraqi Kurdistan:

Kurdistan: Does independence beckon? (The Economist, September 13, 2007)

And for anyone foolish who is thinking of holidaying in southern Iraq, as I have heard reports of, consider these next articles about the British withdrawal from Basra. All is not peaceful down there. Don't go.

"The departure of UK forces... is likely to precipitate a free-for-all among rival local groupings for control in Iraq's second city.

Fearing Shia chaos in Iraq (The Economist Intelligence Unit, September 5th, 2007)
Last post in Basra (The Economist, September 6th, 2007)

safety in south-eastern Turkey

Travellers should exercise caution coming to Iraqi Kurdistan through Sirnak province in Turkey, the province the border town of Silopi is a part of. Stay on the bus going on the main roads to Silopi.

During September there was substantial violence between the Turkish military and the PKK, resulting in numerous deaths. Hakkari and Siirt provinces have also experienced substantial violence.

Also, Turkey has shelled villages on the Iraqi side of the border over the summer. It's probably not a good idea to visit those villages at risk of further shelling.

Source: this article from the New Anatolian, 5 October 2007.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Is it possible to travel across the Kurdistan/Iran border?

A. As far as I know it is not officially possible (and I don't recommend an illegal crossing). If you want to travel between Iraqi Kurdistan and Iran it is necessary to go back through Turkey.

Q. Do I need a visa for Iraqi Kurdistan?

A. No. Generally at the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing at Zakho you are permitted entry without a visa, and I assume it is the same at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah airports. The passport stamp requires registration within 10 days at the Residence Office. You need to ask around to find this office.

With this entry stamp in your passport you may still exit the Kurdistan region. For instance, entering Kirkuk you will not be stopped. But don't think this is a great reason to visit Kirkuk or Mosul or anywhere else dangerous. It is likely that within a few hours of arriving there will be a price on your head. Don't go.

If you want to enter Iraqi through any other border or airport (ie. Baghdad) you need a visa in advance, which apparently can be difficult to get. And those regions are not recommended for travel either.

Q. What is the exchange rate for the Iraqi dinar?

A. The official rate is around 1250 dinar to US$1. The unofficial rate on the street can be up to 1400 dinar to US$1. It varies depending on the bank or money-changer. US bills below $10 are not always accepted.

Q. How much money should I take for my Kurdistan trip?

A. I recommend at least US$50 per day while within Iraqi Kurdistan, plus money for travel in and out.

US$50 includes $15 for accomodation, $15 for a shared taxi ride between towns, plus $20 for food and other miscellaneous costs.

You should allow at least US$300 for a flight out, or if going via the Turkish border, enough money for a taxi all the way to Silopi, so allow $50 from Zakho, $80 from Dohuk or up to $100 from Erbil. These are upper estimates to allow for being ripped off or having to pay for a whole taxi without sharing the cost.

Q. What are the costs of travelling between cities in Iraqi Kurdistan?

A. For more detail see this page. Generally one seat in a shared taxi costs US$15 for the following regular journeys, each between two and four hours:

Zakho - Dohuk
Dohuk - Erbil
Erbil - Sulaymaniyah (costs more if you want to avoid driving through Kirkuk)

There are shared taxis and minibuses which travel between smaller towns which you can find at various garages in each city.

Q. What other places are worth visiting apart from the main cities?

A. From Dohuk, there are the mountain towns of Amadiyya and Akre to the east.
From Erbil, there are the mountain resort towns of Salahaddin, Shaqlawa, Bekhal and Gali Ali Beg in dramatic mountain valleys.
From Sulaymaniyah, there is Halabja to the south-east, and Dukan and Derbendikhan dams nearby, with lakeside cabins available.
Some more info is here (from the KRG).

Zakho

Zakho is the Kurdish Iraqi city at the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing. With a population somewhere around 90,000, this city is mainly a trading post. If you go straight from the border to Dohuk in a taxi, all you will see of Zakho is hundreds of empty trucks waiting to get back into Turkey, so that they can return with a full load of goods to sell in Iraq.

Zakho's main attraction for tourists is the famous ancient stone Delal Bridge.

Many thanks to Usva Auer, who sent the following info on Zakho:

All the hotels mentioned here have A/C and cable TV. Most have probably fridge. I don't know if the price of the doubles is the same for two people.

Hotel Sinor - Near Der Masseh church by the river. Single/twin 13 000 dinar (10 USD).

Good, modern rooms; very good value. Big bed, quiet location, but at night the street to the hotel not well lighted. In the neighbourhood there are a few more hotels. The hotel staff aren't used to foreigners and don't speak any foreign languages but are willing to try their best.

Hotel Zozek - Reka Barzan/Baderkhan str, near the best hotel in the city Hotel Bazaaz. Double 15 000 dinar (12 USD).

Welcoming staff! The owner speaks some English and is very honoured to have foreign guests. The price includes, suprisingly, a breakfast which is not usually served in the Kurdish hotels. And that is a big breakfast! Quiet, modern rooms, sparkling clean toilets.

Hotel Arya - On the main street as Hotel Zozek but at the other end. Double room for 20 000 dinar (15 USD).

This location is perfect for the nightlife. Several late night restaurants and a cyber cafe in the neighbourhood. Good location for single female travellers. Some rooms come with balcony facing a rather busy street. The rooms without balcony face a quieter alley and are probably cheaper. Decent rooms but not as nice as in Zozek and Sinor though.

health

According to this article from the Kurdish Globe, there has been a cholera outbreak in Suleymaniyah and Kirkuk. This is extra reason to be very careful about the water you drink and the food you eat while in Kurdistan. Be sensible.

a recent blog on Kurdistan

Mart, from Holland, has posted about his recent trip to Kurdistan.