Hikers charged with spying

Those American hikers arrested after apparently accidentally crossing the border into Iran from Iraqi Kurdistan (see my original post here) have now been charged with spying. Shane Bauer, Sarah Shourd and Josh Fattal from the Bay Area in California were arrested in July. Hopefully these guys won't become pawns in the negotiations over Iranian nuclear energy aspirations. More from the BBC here, and for the latest run-down, check Google news.

Recent travel notes

Some very helpful travel tips from Jo, who was in Iraq in June:

Getting in from Iran at Haj Omran border crossing, no problem, is open to foreigners and visa on arrival for Kurdistan and the other way round no problem either, but need Iranian visa in advance. Possibility to take 1 or 2 minibuses(10000 Rials) from Orumiyeh bus terminal to Piranshahr (or like i did via Oshnavieh first one left at 6:00am then on to Piranshahr after a one hour wait 5000 Rial each, less than 1 euro total ) and hitch with trucks to the border from there, not far less than 10 KM or take a taxi for the last bit ( but i did see a few minibuses waiting on the iranian side of the border, maybe possible) or there are quite a few direct buses, 35$, from Orumyeh to Erbil. I got a free ride from Piranshahr to the border on one of these luxury liners but don't count on it, a friendly guy at the bus office smuggled me on. From Piranshahr they wanted still 30$ to Erbil! To Erbil from the border post you can hitch with Trucks or take a (shared) taxi to Erbil, 15000-20000 Dinar. It cost me 20000 as I took 2 different cars...

Erbil Hotels i stayed at the Al Zhur hotel look for the Shahraban Tourist Hotel sign on the corner, its opposite, nice tea house next door, and ok internet up the stairs next door too, you called it Al Thur, in the 4 bed dorm for 7000Dinar, had attached bath and satellite TV, have been in much worse. But not for everybody. My 2 room mates were older men from Baghdad and I went with one of them to Slemani, really nice and sheperded me around and put me on the minibus to go to the center of Slemani. The Yezidi managers were really friendly. There is a great BBQ stand out in front with delicious liver on a stick, 5000 dinar for 4 with a plate of salad, not bad. The textile museum in the Citadel of Erbil is very good and free. Around it, north, are some burned down mansions and some restored ones and some abandoned ones which are lovely to explore [I agree! - bpi]. Everything else is off limits really, lots of military presence in the citadel.

Erbil to Slemani took a Minibus, called Coaster, skirted the suburbs of Kirkuk, on the outer ringroad, never entered, but at the checkpoint I had to get out across the road to be questioned. a little risky maybe to cross there in so obvious a target. But went well, took 3.5 hours and cost 8000 Dinar.

Slemani got off at the big crossroads before the turnoff that gets you to the garage ( between Malik Mahmood Ring Road or 60 meter circular and Salim street), has a huge new overpass running over the crossroads (a traffic circle) took a minibus 350 Dinar to the center of Slemani(along Salim St) got off at the municipal park.

Slemani hotels asked around and found a real rough little cheapy (love them) the Salahudin, 3000 Dinar for a dorm bed ( no attached bathroom, toilet at end of corridor and shower costs extra if I understood right, haven't tried it yet. No sign, only in Arabic, up a little all white staircase white and red sign over the door, just 5 meters south of the red sign for Paris or Peris Internet, can't miss it. It's on Kawa st, northern third, just after the crossroads with Mawlawi St. First hotel I checked was hotel Sheren or Sherin Hotel just 50m south of that crossroads on Kawa St. 100m north of the Salahudin Hotel.

Safety update

There were reports on Thursday that Turkey was again massing troops near the Iraqi border, followed by a report today that they killed 15 PKK members in northern Iraq yesterday. Be sensible. And it would be wise to avoid any political demonstrations in Turkey's southeast. Apart from that, it seems that all is well in the main cities of Iraqi Kurdistan.

Meanwhile, in the rest of Iraq, there is some kind of civil war going on, with the Mehdi Army's ceasefire broken. There have been clashes between militias and Iraqi government forces in Basra, Baghdad (especially Sadr City), Kut, Karbala, Hilla and Diwaniyah.

Detailed reporting on violence is at Iraq War News Today.

In other news, Soma Digest has an interesting report on the challenges of getting the free market functioning in Iraqi Kurdistan, and insight into the Turkish businesses working there.

Turkey still shelling

Reports are out that despite pulling its troops out of Iraq, they are still shelling some remote mountain locations, the one mentioned being Dashti Barzji, in the mountains of Erbil province.

Border open, Turks going home?

I have it on good authority that the border between Silopi and Zakho is still open, despite the Turkish military action in the region.

Peshmerga are reporting that Turkish troops are beginning to pull out of northern Iraq, over the border and back into Turkey. This is despite the Turks saying on Wednesday that there was 'no timeframe' for withdrawal.

Meanwhile Iraqi Kurds, who a year ago were very pro-US, now seem to be disillusioned with the US's neutral stance on Turkey's incursion. I know that when I was there in February last year I saw many US flags for sale and on display, as well as framed pictures of George W. Bush and Tony Blair.

And a some Turkish thoughts on the 'Kurdish question'.

Turkey invades, border virtually closed

On Thursday February 21, Turkey's military sent ground forces across the border into Iraqi Kurdistan, with the aim of hunting and killing PKK militants. Please carefully consider any travel into the region and don't go anywhere stupid.

News today reports bombing 'around' the town of Amadiyah, which is a town in the mountains east of Dohuk, and just south of the Turkish border. There are also reports of fighting in the areas of Hakurk and Sidekan on the Iraqi side of the border across from the Turkish town of Cukurca.

It's reported that Turkish troops are patrolling towns near the border (eg. Cizre and Silopi), and that the Habur border gate (the one between Silopi and Zakho) is virtually closed to civilian traffic, since the Turkish military is being given priority. This is a very tense and sensitive situation and you should seriously reconsider even going into that region of Turkey right now.

Kurdistan Regional Government president Massoud Barzani is reported to have visited the area where the military operation was launched and "no order of clashes with the Turkish forces has been given to the peshmerges [KRG military]."

The Turkish army's ground incursion against separatist Kurdish rebels in northern Iraq is limited in scope, Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan said Friday.

"The target, purpose, size and parameters of this operation are limited," Erdogan said in televised remarks, underlining that the incursion targeted only rebels of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers' Party.

"Our armed forces will come back in the shortest time possible as soon as they achieve their objectives," he added.

"Several hundred, possibly a battalion of Turkish special forces, went in to pursue (rebels) in what they think is a PKK area," the official told Reuters.

The KRG has also condemned the invasion as a violation of Iraqi sovereignty and called for "immediate four-party talks between Washington, Ankara, Baghdad and Erbil" to discuss the issue of the PKK.

I understand that the fighting is restricted to the mountains (which are difficult to get into with the snow anyway) and that the major cities of Dohuk, Erbil and Sulaymaniyah are not affected. But it's still a difficult situation and you should exercise all caution if considering visiting the region in the near future.

safety in south-eastern Turkey

Travellers should exercise caution coming to Iraqi Kurdistan through Sirnak province in Turkey, the province the border town of Silopi is a part of. Stay on the bus going on the main roads to Silopi.

During September there was substantial violence between the Turkish military and the PKK, resulting in numerous deaths. Hakkari and Siirt provinces have also experienced substantial violence.

Also, Turkey has shelled villages on the Iraqi side of the border over the summer. It's probably not a good idea to visit those villages at risk of further shelling.

Source: this article from the New Anatolian, 5 October 2007.

Zakho

Zakho is the Kurdish Iraqi city at the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing. With a population somewhere around 90,000, this city is mainly a trading post. If you go straight from the border to Dohuk in a taxi, all you will see of Zakho is hundreds of empty trucks waiting to get back into Turkey, so that they can return with a full load of goods to sell in Iraq.

Zakho's main attraction for tourists is the famous ancient stone Delal Bridge.

Many thanks to Usva Auer, who sent the following info on Zakho:

All the hotels mentioned here have A/C and cable TV. Most have probably fridge. I don't know if the price of the doubles is the same for two people.

Hotel Sinor - Near Der Masseh church by the river. Single/twin 13 000 dinar (10 USD).

Good, modern rooms; very good value. Big bed, quiet location, but at night the street to the hotel not well lighted. In the neighbourhood there are a few more hotels. The hotel staff aren't used to foreigners and don't speak any foreign languages but are willing to try their best.

Hotel Zozek - Reka Barzan/Baderkhan str, near the best hotel in the city Hotel Bazaaz. Double 15 000 dinar (12 USD).

Welcoming staff! The owner speaks some English and is very honoured to have foreign guests. The price includes, suprisingly, a breakfast which is not usually served in the Kurdish hotels. And that is a big breakfast! Quiet, modern rooms, sparkling clean toilets.

Hotel Arya - On the main street as Hotel Zozek but at the other end. Double room for 20 000 dinar (15 USD).

This location is perfect for the nightlife. Several late night restaurants and a cyber cafe in the neighbourhood. Good location for single female travellers. Some rooms come with balcony facing a rather busy street. The rooms without balcony face a quieter alley and are probably cheaper. Decent rooms but not as nice as in Zozek and Sinor though.

Getting into Iraqi Kurdistan

1. From Syria
2. From Turkey
3. Crossing the border
4. Zakho
5. By air
6. From Iraq

The best (and cheapest) way to get into Iraqi Kurdistan is through the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing, which is in the city of Zakho in Iraq, and a few kilometres from the town of Silopi on the Turkish side. Going this way means you don't have to pass through the dangerous parts of Iraq (the non-Kurdish-controlled areas). Alternatively (but much more expensively), it's possible to fly into Erbil or Suleymaniyah from a few Middle Eastern and European cities.

From Syria:

Get to Qamishli, in North-eastern Syria. The 9 hour bus ride from Damascus should cost around SYP300 (US$6). Once in Qamishli, you can walk (10 min) north from the city centre to the border post with Nusaybin, Turkey. If it's too late to cross the border, Hotel Omayya (SYP 300/single, dirty toilets) is a stark little place, in the city centre on the road to the border.

On the Turkish side, in addition to the tourist visa, for which there is usually a fee, there is a small extra 5 lira ($4). Get an overpriced taxi (or walk for 15 min) to the Nusaybin Otogar, from where you can catch a passing bus direct to Silopi (7.5 lira / $6, 2 hours).

From Turkey:

Get to Silopi, the border town on the Turkish side. I would advise that you DON'T waste your money on a taxi all the way from Diyarbakir (as I have heard some recommend), but take a much cheaper bus all the way to Silopi. Buses go there from Cizre (nearby larger city), Mardin, Diyarbakir, Sirnak, and most likely a few other places. Turkish Airlines flies to Mardin a few times per week.

Once in Silopi, the only public transport across the border is by taxi. The local cartel will charge US$40 per taxi for this service (feel free to try to bargain), dropping you off at the taxi rank on the Iraqi side (but should still help you to negotiate your Iraqi taxi fare). The taxi driver should help you at each border check. Before you leave he'll make some photocopies of your passport to give to Turkish passport control.

Crossing the border:

IMPORTANT: Please be aware that the 'Kurdish issue' is very contentious in Turkish politics and it is worth avoiding talking about it with the border officials, or any Turkish security personnel. Also terrorism is a concern for both sides, so don't act suspiciously, or you may end up in trouble.

On the Turkish side it is rather quick for small vehicles to cross- it only took 15 minutes for me. I don't know if my driver bribed anyone or not.

On the Iraqi Kurdistan side, you will sit and wait in a little lounge area, with tea & TV. Kurdish passport control will ask questions about your occupation and reasons for visiting Iraq, and may ask for verification like documents, ID cards, etc. If you have any local contacts they will probably take the name & phone number and give them a call to make sure your story checks out. I have heard that some men travelling alone have been made to wait for a few days at the border- it didn't happen to me but be aware it is possible. Be open and honest, and if you have nothing to hide you should be fine. But it may be easier not to travel alone, and it's definitely preferable to have a local contact to vouch for you.

You don't have to pay for an Iraqi visa if entering by this post, it's just a big fat page-sized stamp in the passport and that's it.

After passport control you might be taken to meet a security official in an office building. He was welcoming to me, and insisted that I contact the local security office if I had any problems anywhere in Kurdistan.

You may change US dollars, Euros, or Turkish Lira into Iraqi Dinars at a small hidden bank office in a customs building. Ask around until you find it.
The exchange rate was about 1,300 Dinar = US $1. Based on that, the Turkish Lira would be around 900 Dinar (February 2007 rate).

Zakho:

Your driver will drive you another half kilometre to the taxi rank, where you can negotiate a taxi to Dohuk or Erbil, or you can stay in Zakho if you wish. There are bound to be numerous hotels in the centre of this city of perhaps up to 150,000 people. All I saw of Zakho was an industrial border town full of trucks- I don't know if it's worth staying, although apparently there is the famous old Delal Bridge (Pira Delal).

From Zakho, a car to Dohuk (around 1 hour) was $45, or $90 to Erbil (3-4 hours). These prices are for one whole car, so if you have 3 passengers divide that by 3. Other travellers will be willing to share a taxi. If you want to get to smaller towns & villages near Zakho, there should be a 'garage' in Zakho where you can find taxis that go to different places, including into the mountains.

By air:

There are flights into Erbil and Suleymaniyah from numerous cities, including Baghdad, Amman, Beirut, Dubai, Tehran, Istanbul, Vienna, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Frankfurt and Munich. The flights are not cheap (except within Iraq). One way international tickets are anywhere from $290 to $500, and return is anywhere from $550 upwards.

These airlines tend to be charter operations and some have cancelled their operations to Iraqi Kurdistan. After cancelling its service in 2007, Austrian Airlines will start three direct flights per week from Vienna, starting April 2, 2008, and will increase to four per week in June 2008.

Erbil International Airport is currently very small, but a new, larger terminal is due to open around the end of 2007. Suleymaniyah International Airport was built in 2003, currently with a larger capacity than Erbil, and more information available online about flights, schedules, and prices.

2008: A new air service called IRAQUNA has started recently with flights to/from Athens, and an arrangement with Olympic Airlines for connecting flights to London (Gatwick), Dusseldorf, Amsterdam, and Stockholm. Prices (available on their website) are not cheap.

Airlines flying to Kurdistan (list includes travel agents in Kurdistan)

From non-Kurdish Iraq:

I strongly advise against travelling through Iraq to get to Kurdistan. It is sheer foolishness to go through dangerous parts of Iraq (all areas not controlled by the KRG). Bombs happen, shootings happen, abductions happen, and being foreign will just make you an easier target.

Violence in Iraq has dropped dramatically since June 2007. The figures are something like a 60% drop in violence year-on-year from January 2007 to January 2008. Violent deaths are down from around 2000 per months a year ago to less than 600 in January 2008. So things are much better, but still not great. I urge extreme caution if you are considering travelling outside the KRG's territory.

But if you're already in non-Kurdish Iraq, I presume there are taxis or minibuses from Mosul, Kirkuk and maybe Baghdad to the major Kurdish-controlled cities, as well as flights from Baghdad and Basra.

So, I must stress, STAY IN THE KURDISH REGION of Iraq. Don't be a hero and go somewhere else for the hell of it. It's just total stupidity. But if you're going to, at least avoid Mosul and Baquba, two main centres of violence and terrorist activities.