Showing posts with label hotels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hotels. Show all posts

Monday, July 27, 2009

Recent travel notes

Some very helpful travel tips from Jo, who was in Iraq in June:

Getting in from Iran at Haj Omran border crossing, no problem, is open to foreigners and visa on arrival for Kurdistan and the other way round no problem either, but need Iranian visa in advance. Possibility to take 1 or 2 minibuses(10000 Rials) from Orumiyeh bus terminal to Piranshahr (or like i did via Oshnavieh first one left at 6:00am then on to Piranshahr after a one hour wait 5000 Rial each, less than 1 euro total ) and hitch with trucks to the border from there, not far less than 10 KM or take a taxi for the last bit ( but i did see a few minibuses waiting on the iranian side of the border, maybe possible) or there are quite a few direct buses, 35$, from Orumyeh to Erbil. I got a free ride from Piranshahr to the border on one of these luxury liners but don't count on it, a friendly guy at the bus office smuggled me on. From Piranshahr they wanted still 30$ to Erbil! To Erbil from the border post you can hitch with Trucks or take a (shared) taxi to Erbil, 15000-20000 Dinar. It cost me 20000 as I took 2 different cars...

Erbil Hotels i stayed at the Al Zhur hotel look for the Shahraban Tourist Hotel sign on the corner, its opposite, nice tea house next door, and ok internet up the stairs next door too, you called it Al Thur, in the 4 bed dorm for 7000Dinar, had attached bath and satellite TV, have been in much worse. But not for everybody. My 2 room mates were older men from Baghdad and I went with one of them to Slemani, really nice and sheperded me around and put me on the minibus to go to the center of Slemani. The Yezidi managers were really friendly. There is a great BBQ stand out in front with delicious liver on a stick, 5000 dinar for 4 with a plate of salad, not bad. The textile museum in the Citadel of Erbil is very good and free. Around it, north, are some burned down mansions and some restored ones and some abandoned ones which are lovely to explore [I agree! - bpi]. Everything else is off limits really, lots of military presence in the citadel.

Erbil to Slemani took a Minibus, called Coaster, skirted the suburbs of Kirkuk, on the outer ringroad, never entered, but at the checkpoint I had to get out across the road to be questioned. a little risky maybe to cross there in so obvious a target. But went well, took 3.5 hours and cost 8000 Dinar.

Slemani got off at the big crossroads before the turnoff that gets you to the garage ( between Malik Mahmood Ring Road or 60 meter circular and Salim street), has a huge new overpass running over the crossroads (a traffic circle) took a minibus 350 Dinar to the center of Slemani(along Salim St) got off at the municipal park.

Slemani hotels asked around and found a real rough little cheapy (love them) the Salahudin, 3000 Dinar for a dorm bed ( no attached bathroom, toilet at end of corridor and shower costs extra if I understood right, haven't tried it yet. No sign, only in Arabic, up a little all white staircase white and red sign over the door, just 5 meters south of the red sign for Paris or Peris Internet, can't miss it. It's on Kawa st, northern third, just after the crossroads with Mawlawi St. First hotel I checked was hotel Sheren or Sherin Hotel just 50m south of that crossroads on Kawa St. 100m north of the Salahudin Hotel.

Saturday, September 1, 2007

Zakho

Zakho is the Kurdish Iraqi city at the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing. With a population somewhere around 90,000, this city is mainly a trading post. If you go straight from the border to Dohuk in a taxi, all you will see of Zakho is hundreds of empty trucks waiting to get back into Turkey, so that they can return with a full load of goods to sell in Iraq.

Zakho's main attraction for tourists is the famous ancient stone Delal Bridge.

Many thanks to Usva Auer, who sent the following info on Zakho:

All the hotels mentioned here have A/C and cable TV. Most have probably fridge. I don't know if the price of the doubles is the same for two people.

Hotel Sinor - Near Der Masseh church by the river. Single/twin 13 000 dinar (10 USD).

Good, modern rooms; very good value. Big bed, quiet location, but at night the street to the hotel not well lighted. In the neighbourhood there are a few more hotels. The hotel staff aren't used to foreigners and don't speak any foreign languages but are willing to try their best.

Hotel Zozek - Reka Barzan/Baderkhan str, near the best hotel in the city Hotel Bazaaz. Double 15 000 dinar (12 USD).

Welcoming staff! The owner speaks some English and is very honoured to have foreign guests. The price includes, suprisingly, a breakfast which is not usually served in the Kurdish hotels. And that is a big breakfast! Quiet, modern rooms, sparkling clean toilets.

Hotel Arya - On the main street as Hotel Zozek but at the other end. Double room for 20 000 dinar (15 USD).

This location is perfect for the nightlife. Several late night restaurants and a cyber cafe in the neighbourhood. Good location for single female travellers. Some rooms come with balcony facing a rather busy street. The rooms without balcony face a quieter alley and are probably cheaper. Decent rooms but not as nice as in Zozek and Sinor though.

Friday, March 16, 2007

Sulaymaniyah

Sulaymaniyah (see map) is a beautiful city, encircled by mountain ridges. Locals will tell you that it's the most modern city in Iraqi Kurdistan, the place where new fashions and trends are adopted first... that sort of thing. It has a population close to one million, and like every city in the region, growing quickly. Taxis around town are between 2,000 and 5,000 dinar, depending on the distance. There are also minibuses that ply various routes.

Hotels- I don't have much info on Suly's hotels, as I didn't stay in any, but thanks to Usva Auer I have the following info:

Hotel Chrakhan- On Salim Street, next to Ashti Hotel. Normal price for a double around 25 USD. (Special price: Double 20 000 / 15 USD, this price was fixed by a friend of the owner: I was lucky to share a taxi with him).

Probably the cheapest hotel in this, the better/newer side of the city. A little bit worn out but still OK. Private bathrooms (unlike the budget rooms in the city). The front rooms come with a balcony (and some street noise) while the rooms at the back are quieter but no balcony. Electricity in the morning and in the evening till the midnight. The owner, if in Iraq, speaks some Swedish. There's a very nice salad bar downstairs the hotel.

Mewan Hotel- Pyramed Street, Bazaar. Triple 10 000 dinars (7 USD).

This is the cheapest hotel I found in Kurdistan. The hotel is a bit gloomy and rooms are very basic but considering the price better than one can expect. There's a fridge on the corridor, don't recall if there was an A/C or TV in the room. Bathroom shared between two rooms. Electricity only in the evening. The young staff was very welcoming and knew some English! A cheap lunch restaurant around the corner.

Bukan Motel- Pyramed Street, Bazaar. Suite for two 26 000 dinar (20 USD). Cheaper rooms were not introduced to me. The old fashioned suite shares the bathroom with another room. What makes this hotel special is the kitchen guests can use. Staff was very enthousiatic selling the room.

Hotel Tara- Pyramed Street, Bazaar. Single 20 000 dinar (15 USD), double for one 25 000 dinar. Nothing fancy but OK. Doubles are better value than singles. The batroom is shared between three rooms. Matresses are not the best quality. Singles facing the street can be noicy.


Hiwa Hotel- 15,000 dinar ($12). On Kawa Street. Friendly. Will find a roommate for you, to reduce the price to 13,000 dinar.

Mawlawi Hotel- also on Kawa St, right at the main intersection. I'm told it's quite cheap.

There are quite a few hotels on Kawa Street, near the bazaar.

More expensive hotels are the Sulaymaniyah Palace Hotel (the tallest one on Salim Street) and the Ashti Hotel, also on Salim St.

Museums- not sure exactly where these are. There is the Sulaymaniyah National Museum (closed Fri, Sat, Sun), and a separate torture museum, often called the 'red house prison', detailing the horrors of Saddam's regime (ask for 'Amna Saraca'). Walking distance from the bazaar.

Bazaar- very large, in the centre of town, with some US army surplus available.

eating- Have an awesome Suly-style kebab on Mawlawi Street- it involves bread, kebab, tomato and onion all separate, and you put it together yourself into bite-sized rolls. Delicious! Also eat at a regular workmen's restaurant (ie. #12 on the map), having some quality rice, chicken, soup, fasulye (baked beans) and probably a fun conversation.

drinking- For chay, there is a great men's chay khane (teahouse) at number 6 on the map, where people will be eager to talk about your country's possibilities of investing in Kurdistan and such ambitious topics. There are numerous tea stalls at various intersections on main roads, and it's always worth having one.

I only know of one bar, whose entrance is on the side street to the left of the Ashti Hotel. The bar is on the first floor, and I saw no women inside. Imported Turkish beer and spirits available. Inevitably you'll end up enjoying some local hospitality.

Post office- This is just off Mawlawi Street. It's 1,250 dinar (US$1) for a letter to Australia, so I doubt anywhere else would cost more.

Airline offices are on Salim Street, near the Ashti Hotel. Suleymaniyah airport is to the west of the city, not too far away.

Azmar mountain- If you look up in Suly you'll see the ubiquitous PUK-TV tower on Azmar mountain. You can take a taxi up here, but it's not cheap. Something like 15,000 dinar. Great views of the city, and also over the ridges towards more mountains, and Iran to the east.

Halabja-

Getting to Halabja is easy for a day. You go out of Hotel Hiwa and go left, take the first right by all the fruit and veg sellers and there is a garage down there on the right. Take the Shahedun bus to the Halapja garage (250) and from there take a bus to Halabja (2500), they leave when full or evey 30 mins it seemed. Make sure you go to Old Halabja (Shaheed Halabja), not the new city (Taza Halabja), its only 80kms and takes about 2 hours.

There is the damaged monument to see there (damaged in protests last year), if you go, go to the visitor's centre next to the monument, the guys in there are surviors of the chemical attack and speak good English and will show you around. You also get a free information book on Halabja, a pin badge and a CD-ROM. Go to the visitors office before you start taking pictures etc as there is a police station opposite who map pick you up. I spent about 40 mins in the police station and in another down the road, they were really nice and no problem but best avoided (they even gave me an armed gaurd for the day to follow me about the city, just a bit OTT!).

The last bus back to Suli leaves about 3.30ish.

(thanks to George a.k.a. scubamonkey69, and Usva Auer)

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Erbil

Erbil (a.k.a. Hewler, Arbil, Irbil) is the biggest city in Iraqi Kurdistan, and plays an integral role in society and the economy, situated right in the middle of the region. There is a lot of investment in Erbil, with some large construction projects underway, including the new international airport terminal, luxury residential developments, and industrial projects also.

Arriving in Erbil (basic maps here) you can't ignore Erbil's citadel- the ancient mound in the centre of Erbil is one of the "oldest continuously inhabited" communities in the world, and is undergoing significant change. It's worth wandering around the deserted streets, and you should not miss out on its Kurdish Textile Museum, a fantastic witness to Kurdish culture and tradition.

There is ample opportunity for shopping, with the large covered bazaar just south of the citadel, surrounding market streets, and the huge new Nishtiman Mall, which opened in 2007.

There is a cluster of bookshops in a little strip facing the west side of the citadel. Apart from many Kurdish publications, there are a few English titles on Kurdistan which can be found, although tend to be a little out of date, or on esoteric academic topics. Worth a look if you're interested.

South-west of the citadel is the minare, a broken minaret which is the only remainder of a once-important mosque. It has a surrounding park that is unfortunately rather bare-looking.

Outside Erbil, there are numerous mountain resort towns that can be visited for a quieter rest in the mountains. Salahaddin, Shaqlawa, Rawanduz, Bekhal and Gali Ali Beg are situated north of Erbil in allegedly picturesque mountain valleys. Unfortunately I've not yet visited these places and so don't have information on getting there. Presumably if you get to the bus terminal in Erbil you can find some public transport, otherwise I'm sure any taxi driver would be pleased to drive you up into the mountains for a handsome fee.

Erbil Hotels

Erbil has many hotels (see maps), from the horrendous to the luxurious. Most are in and surrounding the bazaar area just south of the citadel. Some of these places have the potential to set themselves up as a good quality backpacker hostel. Somewhere like the Qandeel or Zheen or Ali Hotels. It'll just take someone with the will and knowledge to make it happen. Even the hellish Al-Thur Hotel could be set up as a good place, it's certainly got plenty of rooms. Every place would be better if only hotels would place a value on cleanliness and high standards. I think it can and will happen, it might just take a 'critical mass' of tourists to get it to that stage.

I was travelling by myself, and most hotels didn't have such a thing as a single room- a room might have 2 or 3 beds, and costs the same regardless of how many people sleep in it. So keep in mind, prices are probably cheaper if you're not alone. Also, try bargaining.

Keep in mind that electricity is in short supply and will probably go off at least a few times each evening. Unless stated otherwise, all toilets are squat toilets and all showers are just over the floor with a drain in the corner. Hot water is precious if you are lucky enough to get it. "$" refers to US dollars, and is an approximate equivalent. And above all, things change.

The hotels:

Qandeel Hotel - 20,000 dinar ($16). In the curved building on the corner facing the main gate of the citadel, Qandeel offers the best value of the cheaper hotels I looked at. Pretty clean, satellite TV and private bathroom (in some rooms). If you ask, they will find someone for you to share a room with for 10,000 dinar. I stayed here.

Ali Hotel - 20,000 dinar ($16). TV in room, bathroom shared. Clean-looking.

Zheen Hotel
- 20,000 dinar ($16) per single bed, in a shared room, with toilet. I suspect bargaining may be possible here.

Zagros Hotel - 30,000 dinar ($24). Next to the Ali Hotel, didn't get a chance to look at a room.

Bekhal Hotel - 30,000 dinar ($24). Across the road from Zheen Hotel, this place looked clean from the lobby. Didn't see a room, but probably ok.

Arbil Tower Hotel - 55,000 dinar ($44) / single. A tallish brown building a bit away from the bazaar, this place is an older hotel that was once the best in town.

Erbil International Hotel - a.k.a. "The Sheraton". This is the swankiest place in the city, and you can see its 10-floor blue glass exterior from the bazaar area. Price- very expensive. Features- restaurant, bar (with Corona or Heineken for 8,500 dinar/ $6.50), travel agent (although tickets are issued elsewhere), and a branch of the Emerald Bank, where you can apparently withdraw money on a Visa Card (NOT MasterCard, to my displeasure). Even though staying here is a pipe dream, its worth a visit if you're craving a good quality toilet, Euro-style.

Shahraban Tourist Hotel
- $25. Claimed to be the cheapest place in town. The fact that they lied makes me disinclined to recommend them.

Al-Thur Hotel - 15,000 dinar ($12). (Opposite the Shahraban Tourist Hotel). Though the cheapest place in town, it's for a reason. This place has the aesthetics of a Soviet orphanage, with dark, bleak, asylum-style corridors and bare rooms with the charm of a prison cell. There were cigarette ashes and other dirt on my floor, nothing had been cleaned, and the basin in the odourous bathroom was loose. While the staff were friendly, this is the worst hotel I've ever stayed in in my whole life. Please, don't settle for this hole, like I did on my first night in Erbil. Stay at the Qandeel, Ali or Zheen.

There are numerous other places to stay, mainly around the bazaar area but also a few more pricey ones near the Arbil Tower Hotel. Always check on prices and ask to see your room before you check in.


A typical hallway in Al-Thur hotel.


Behind the reception desk at Qandeel Hotel.

Friday, March 9, 2007

Dohuk hotels

There are lots of hotels in Dohuk (see map). Most are on the two main roads either side of the bazaar area- Kawa Road and 11 Ayloul Road. I only checked the prices of the hotels on Kawa Rd, but I'm sure this is a good sample. Thanks to Usva Auer for help with info on some of the hotels.

I was travelling by myself, and most hotels didn't have such a thing as a single room- a room might have 2 or 3 beds, and costs the same regardless of how many people sleep in it. So keep in mind, prices are probably cheaper if you travel with someone.

Keep in mind that electricity is in short supply and will probably go off at least a few times each evening. Unless stated otherwise, all toilets are squat toilets and all showers are just over the floor with a drain in the corner. Hot water is precious if you are lucky enough to get it. "$" refers to US dollars, and is an approximate equivalent. And above all, things change.

Hotel Perleman
- 20,000 dinar ($16). This was the best value in town (for me), with a relatively low price, but clean. The friendly guys who run this place can help you with directions around town, and probably invite you to sit and have a chat. Room includes small bathroom, KurdSat TV, small fridge, heating/air con. The door is on the side street 10m from the corner (I stayed here). Others have said that the rooms away from the street are tiny and not good value at all. Make sure you check if the A/C is working.

Darya Hotel - 15,000 dinar ($12). Good value, apparently very clean. Rooms have private bathroom.

Hotel Birjin- $30/single, $40/double. Breakfast included. Sometimes spelt 'Bircin', this 2005-built hotel seems to be the upmarket choice in Dohuk. I almost stayed here just for the beautiful Euro-style toilet & bath. Room has TV and minibar.

Besire Palace Hotel - 25,000 dinar ($20) for something that looked only slightly better quality than Perleman. Plus the reception guy told me a cheaper rate originally, then when I came back to check in it had gone up a lot, then I bargained back down to this price which didn't seem worth it. But, at least it's nice and clean.

Ashawa Hotel - Prices quoted vary from 13,000 - 25,000 dinar ($10- 20). On 11 Ayloul Rd, the main road parallel to Kawa Street. This place is overpriced considering you can get the same quality for 10,000 dinar less (depends what price they quote). Perhaps you should try bargaining. One traveller said "Best of the cheapies. Worn out rooms but massive in size. Some rooms come with a balcony and bathrooms have a bath. "

Kordo Hotel- Suites 20-25 USD. Huge rooms with a living room. Quiet environment, cool rooms in the summer heat. Western toilets. Best value suites in the city.


Duhok Palace Hotel- Single 20,000 dinar (15 USD). Also bigger rooms available. All rooms modern and good quality. On 11 Ayloul Road.

Abin Hotel- Single 30 000 (23 USD). Excellent rooms with massive beds and beautiful decoration. Western toilets. The owner speaks good English and one of the staff knows some German.
On 11 Ayloul Road.

Sulaymani Palace Hotel- Single 20 000 dinar (15 USD). Basic rooms, hard mattress. The staff was welcoming though and promised I could use the internet in the lobby for a small fee. One of the guys knew some English.
On 11 Ayloul Road.

Gara Hotel - 15,000 dinar ($12). Shared bathroom. Not a great hotel, just a step above scungy.

Salahaddin Hotel - looks cheap and crummy, in the lobby at least. The power went out as I came in so I didn't see any rooms.

Biryaety Hotel - 20,000 dinar ($16). Worst value of them all in Dohuk. I made the mistake of staying here my first night. The shared toilets are gross (wear boots as the flush splashes the floor), my bedroom was freezing cold, and there was a large hole in the top of the wall which meant I could clearly hear my neighbour snoring loudly. The satellite TV wouldn't turn on again after I turned it off. Do yourself a favour and stay at the Perleman for the same price, but much better quality.

Biryaety- it may not look that bad, but it is.
Biryaety- worse than it looks.