Showing posts with label Dohuk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dohuk. Show all posts

Saturday, March 10, 2007

Getting around between cities

The main form of public transport between the major cities in Iraqi Kurdistan is shared taxi. Cars are generally white and orange sedans, some large, some quite small. Some newer, some older and beat-up. The roads between cities are not very safe for driving, with usually just one lane in each direction, and over-taking a dangerous activity. I witnessed one head-on collision.

Security:

Taxis seem to only travel on roads controlled by Kurdish forces. There are LOTS of security checkpoints, probably 10 or more on a 3 hour journey, usually before and after towns. You have nothing to fear at these checkpoints, in fact you should be grateful for them keeping Iraqi Kurdistan safe from terrorists. At some the soldier will just wave the taxi through, but at most ID will be checked. Have your passport ready. At some checkpoints, they'll want to check on foreigners more carefully, and you may end up being questioned by the head official. Just be honest and open and you should be fine. But, if they're suspicious of you, it helps to have a local Kurdish contact who can vouch for you.

Details:

Generally there is a normal price for one car, and this price is divided by the number of passengers. Usually you will end up waiting until enough passengers come to fill up all the seats.

In Dohuk, the taxi offices are next to the Hotel Birjin. In Erbil, get in a local taxi and ask for the "Suly Garage" if you're going to Sulaymaniyah. In Sulaymaniyah, "Erbil Garage" etc.

Zakho border - Dohuk: $45 per car, approx 1 hour.
Zakho border - Erbil: $90 per car, approx 4 hours.

Dohuk - Erbil: 20,000 dinar ($16) per person. 80,000 dinar per car. Approx 3 hours. The road goes close to Mosul, but doesn't actually pass through. Apparently the road is controlled by Kurdish forces, but a few soldiers I saw had Iraqi flags on their shoulders...

Erbil - Sulaymaniyah: 15,000 dinar ($12) per person. 3-4 hours. The cartel at the 'Suly Garage' in Erbil were shifty guys, constantly changing prices and 'extra charges' for having a large bag. Be firm in your negotiations. The road between Erbil and Suly passes through the north-eastern suburbs of Kirkuk. I heard that this road is safe, and controlled by Kurdish forces, but the vibes weren't good. Thankfully it only took around 30 minutes to pass through Kirkuk.

Sulaymaniyah - Erbil: 15,000 dinar ($12) per person, 3-4 hours. Takes the same route as above, through Kirkuk's suburbs.

If for some reason you think travelling in a 4WD/SUV would be safer, think again. They are more likely to be targeted for attacks. I sat next to a VIP in one taxi. He said he travelled like this to stay safe.

And if you are bloody crazy you can get a taxi or even minibus from Erbil just to Kirkuk, or even Baghdad. Seriously, you would have to be a foolhardy dunce with a death wish to do this as a foreigner.

Friday, March 9, 2007

Dohuk hotels

There are lots of hotels in Dohuk (see map). Most are on the two main roads either side of the bazaar area- Kawa Road and 11 Ayloul Road. I only checked the prices of the hotels on Kawa Rd, but I'm sure this is a good sample. Thanks to Usva Auer for help with info on some of the hotels.

I was travelling by myself, and most hotels didn't have such a thing as a single room- a room might have 2 or 3 beds, and costs the same regardless of how many people sleep in it. So keep in mind, prices are probably cheaper if you travel with someone.

Keep in mind that electricity is in short supply and will probably go off at least a few times each evening. Unless stated otherwise, all toilets are squat toilets and all showers are just over the floor with a drain in the corner. Hot water is precious if you are lucky enough to get it. "$" refers to US dollars, and is an approximate equivalent. And above all, things change.

Hotel Perleman
- 20,000 dinar ($16). This was the best value in town (for me), with a relatively low price, but clean. The friendly guys who run this place can help you with directions around town, and probably invite you to sit and have a chat. Room includes small bathroom, KurdSat TV, small fridge, heating/air con. The door is on the side street 10m from the corner (I stayed here). Others have said that the rooms away from the street are tiny and not good value at all. Make sure you check if the A/C is working.

Darya Hotel - 15,000 dinar ($12). Good value, apparently very clean. Rooms have private bathroom.

Hotel Birjin- $30/single, $40/double. Breakfast included. Sometimes spelt 'Bircin', this 2005-built hotel seems to be the upmarket choice in Dohuk. I almost stayed here just for the beautiful Euro-style toilet & bath. Room has TV and minibar.

Besire Palace Hotel - 25,000 dinar ($20) for something that looked only slightly better quality than Perleman. Plus the reception guy told me a cheaper rate originally, then when I came back to check in it had gone up a lot, then I bargained back down to this price which didn't seem worth it. But, at least it's nice and clean.

Ashawa Hotel - Prices quoted vary from 13,000 - 25,000 dinar ($10- 20). On 11 Ayloul Rd, the main road parallel to Kawa Street. This place is overpriced considering you can get the same quality for 10,000 dinar less (depends what price they quote). Perhaps you should try bargaining. One traveller said "Best of the cheapies. Worn out rooms but massive in size. Some rooms come with a balcony and bathrooms have a bath. "

Kordo Hotel- Suites 20-25 USD. Huge rooms with a living room. Quiet environment, cool rooms in the summer heat. Western toilets. Best value suites in the city.


Duhok Palace Hotel- Single 20,000 dinar (15 USD). Also bigger rooms available. All rooms modern and good quality. On 11 Ayloul Road.

Abin Hotel- Single 30 000 (23 USD). Excellent rooms with massive beds and beautiful decoration. Western toilets. The owner speaks good English and one of the staff knows some German.
On 11 Ayloul Road.

Sulaymani Palace Hotel- Single 20 000 dinar (15 USD). Basic rooms, hard mattress. The staff was welcoming though and promised I could use the internet in the lobby for a small fee. One of the guys knew some English.
On 11 Ayloul Road.

Gara Hotel - 15,000 dinar ($12). Shared bathroom. Not a great hotel, just a step above scungy.

Salahaddin Hotel - looks cheap and crummy, in the lobby at least. The power went out as I came in so I didn't see any rooms.

Biryaety Hotel - 20,000 dinar ($16). Worst value of them all in Dohuk. I made the mistake of staying here my first night. The shared toilets are gross (wear boots as the flush splashes the floor), my bedroom was freezing cold, and there was a large hole in the top of the wall which meant I could clearly hear my neighbour snoring loudly. The satellite TV wouldn't turn on again after I turned it off. Do yourself a favour and stay at the Perleman for the same price, but much better quality.

Biryaety- it may not look that bad, but it is.
Biryaety- worse than it looks.

Thursday, March 8, 2007

CITY MAPS

Dohuk

Erbil

Sulaymaniyah

General Kurdistan maps - from the Kurdistan Corporation, mainly schematic or regional maps.

Kurdistan region map - from vbgood.com's Iraq map page, which includes numerous useful maps.

Dohuk map

Click on the map to see full size: